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August
11, 2003 - Adios Alaska
After
leaving North Pole and arriving in Tok 200 miles later, I was now
in the same town on the same stretch of the Alaskan Highway I arrived
on. Another 650 miles will take us to the Cassiar Highway, the only
other alternative road for our leaving Alaska behind.
August
14, 2003 - Whitehorse Wal Mart
We spent
last night using Wal Mart's free hospitality again and mom got a
big kick out seeing all the RV's parked there and watching the ladies
return to the rigs with their Wal Mart shopping bags full. Obviously,
the local campground owners have noticed the crowd and complained
to the city authorities. There's now a large billboard asking RV
customers to only park in designated areas and if these are full,
to patronize the commercial campgrounds. Of course, no one paid
any attention to this and no one was asked to leave. I had been
told on my previous visit that one of the favorite activities of
the locals in Whitehorse is to drive around Wal Mart's parking lot
to see all the RV's and count the number of places they're from.
What an exciting life, huh?
August
15, 2003 - Parked on the Continental Divide
We enjoyed
our stay at Walker's RV Park on the Continental Divide and due to
a couple of very lucky, unusual happenstances, we met up with our
newest family members, Chuck & Kalyn, again and began a joint
venture onto the Cassiar Highway bound for Hyder.
I was
happy that although the traffic has definitely picked up since I
arrived in May, it still was uncrowded enough and there were enough
pull-offs to allow me to go as slow as I wanted to go to avoid my
house contents from bouncing around too much. Mom is even getting
used to carefully opening the cupboards after a hundred or so of
jostling miles where contents of shelves get shifted no matter what
you do to prevent it. I still get bonked on the head sometimes when
I forget.
August
18, 2003 - Hyder ("The friendliest little ghost town in Alaska")
We'll
be here a total of 4 days while we prepare for the next big leg
of the trip south. I've needed a break from the daily driving and
it will be nice to just sit for a while with full hookups and quiet
electricity. The only decent weather we had was the second day we
were here when we had decided to stay in, clean up a bit and cook
dinner for Chuck & Kalyn, whose motto is "If you have to
cook it, it's altogether too much trouble." Mom had made her
famous New Orleans style roast beef and it was a lot of fun feasting
and visiting with them again. They're taking off tomorrow heading
back towards California and the requisite visit to their kids, so
I'm not sure if we'll meet again during this trip, but thank God
for the touchstone of email so we can keep up with where each other
is.
August
20, 2003
We had
hoped to visit Bear Glacier and Salmon Glacier during our stay here,
but the clouds and rain are obscuring the views, so we stayed home
again doing laundry and continuing our Skip Bo tournament. I'm still
hoping for better weather ahead, especially for driving, despite
the fact that we keep being told we are here during their rainy
season and that's about all we should expect. To further the irony,
we were also told that prior to our arrival, they had been without
rain for 38 days, so they're really thankful for it.
I've
also been told since I've been here that I should see the Al Pacino
movie "Insomnia" since I've complained about my own lack
of sleep when I arrived here and forgot what dark nights looked
like. When I found out it was filmed in Stewart, BC, where we now
reside, I couldn't resist renting it. Wow, what an intense movie!
I can remember seeing his wild eyed wonder and dazed look in my
own face sometimes.
I'm even
a little sad about it getting darker on a more normal schedule -
it's now dark by 10:00 pm, and I didn't think I'd miss the midnight
sun, but it's hard to think I won't see it again. The fireweed is
blossomed out just about all the way to the top, an indication of
summer's last hurrah. I haven't seen any new snow on the mountaintops,
known locally as "termination dust," another local indicator
of summer's end, and I think we'll probably be too far south by
then to see that bittersweet beauty.
August
21, 2003
My mom
says she's so thankful for her two kids that made this trip possible
for her. She has one son (traditionally the "good" kid
of the family) who has plenty of money and provided the plane trip
to Anchorage, and her daughter (traditionally the "black sheep"
of the family) who is just crazy enough to do this trip without
an overage of money, so she's enjoyed the best of both worlds she
helped create. We've had interesting conversations about how each
of us chose to escape the poverty of our upbringing - Johnny saw
education and making money as his escape and has done so well for
himself and his family. As a flower child shaped by the 60's, I
sought simply the freedom and courage to do what I wanted to do
despite what I didn't have, and miraculously I've managed to do
most of what I've really wanted to do, despite how crazy it sounded.
So we
take off tomorrow toward Prince George again, still looking forward
with lots to see before entering Texas again.
August
22, 2003 - The Stewart/Hyder Road
After
driving 245 miles, upon entering Houston, B.C., I saw a sign in
front of a mall welcoming RVers to spend the night in their rear
parking lot. I was glad to take them up on that offer, and since
it's a small town and far enough from the highway it's pretty quiet
already at 9:00 pm. Tomorrow we'll make it to Jasper National Park
and I've looked forward to this part of Canada since my original
research showed me what was in store on the way to and from Alaska.
August
25, 2003
Into
each life a little rain must fall, especially in the Canadian fall
season. I woke this morning to the sound of pounding rain on my
roof with a pounding wicked sinus headache. I took two sinus pills
which absolutely wiped me out, so I just stayed in bed pretty much
all day. This wasn't altogether a bad thing, cause I had my mommy
cooking me comfort foods (mommy potatoes) and a day of simply resting
not only from the physical tiredness of driving, but the emotional
drain that somehow accompany days of being on a serious high just
from the beauty and majesty of nature surrounding you everywhere
you look.
August
27, 2003 - Icefields Parkway: Waterfalls & Glaciers Galore
Moving
slowly down the road, we saw a mountain goat family and were able
to pull over long enough to watch them for a while. Later on we
saw a big horned sheep with a man standing about 5 feet away from
him taking his picture who seemed totally unconcerned about the
human presence.
August
28, 2003
I was
awakened at 5:00 this morning by the sound of the refrigerator alarm
buzzing its complaint of low voltage. The house batteries were almost
completely down and did not even have enough power to start the
generator, so with bad memories of the Whitehorse meltdown, I turned
everything off, pulled on my long-johns and went back to bed after
explaining to mom what was happening. It's times like these that
she becomes less enamored of the RV lifestyle. In the morning I
was able to start the engine with no problem and took off down the
road, which charged the house batteries enough to start the generator
again so we could at least have coffee before we died from withdrawal.
Since
I just bought my new house batteries in June, I really don't understand
that the problem is since we've dry camped several times since then
with no problem. I wonder if the short drive yesterday wasn't enough
to fully charge them since we've been without hookups for about
5 days now. Maybe the generator didn't run enough during that time
because when we were in Jasper, they wouldn't allow its use except
very infrequently. In any case, I am happy that the campground in
Lake Louise has electricity. Good thing, too, because it's the only
one in town and they know it - $26.00 for a so-so site with no water
or sewer and to top it all off, it's close to the railroad tracks.
I still think we will sleep well tonight - we're both pretty exhausted
from a lot of walking, getting in and out of the RV taking tons
of pictures, and more than anything, a lot of gasping with wonder
at the beauty of these Canadian Rockies.
It's
really been a blast sharing this last leg of my journey with my
mother. I had worried that we'd end up wanting to kill each other
at some point since we're both such independent, opinionated and
just plain cussed women, but instead we're giggling ourselves to
death - over the stupidest stuff, too - especially when we're tired
we start babbling and laughing so hard about it until we both have
tears in our eyes over something so dim-witted that certainly no
one else in the universe would get the joke. I've promised mom I
wouldn't write about one of the craziest things she's done since
we got together, but suffice it to say, we could both be embarrassed
by our off-the-wall, crude bathroom-joke type humor sometimes. We
both joke about how unlikely it would have seemed when I was 16
that we would ever even end up friendly, much less as close as we
are now. Back then she worried that I was so rebellious I would
kill her with a heart attack or something - now she hates being
killed by me at Skip-Bo. (Sorry, mom, I couldn't resist
)
August
31, 2003 - Lake Minnewanka
We drove
to two more beautiful Canadian Lakes at dusk this evening. The softening
light made dimmer by the smoky haze in the air really lent a surreal
air to both Lake Minnewanka and Two Jacks and to top off a perfect
day, we even saw a beautiful doe standing on a cliff as we drove
down the narrow, tree-lined road.
September
2, 2003
We decided
to stay one more day in Banff just to rest up from all the sightseeing
and running around we've been doing. Having so much fun gets tiring
sometimes!
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